Mitsumine Shrine: Where Sacred Ｗolves Guard the Gods
If you’re planning to visit shrines in Japan, why not include Mitsumine Shrine on your list? Mitsumine Shrine is located in the mountains of Okuchichibu in Saitama Prefecture. It is surrounded by beautiful mountains. And if you’re lucky, you may even see a sea of clouds. Mitsumine Shrine is especially unique for its belief that wolves are revered as messengers of the gods. In this column, I’ll introduce a little of what makes Mitsumine Shrine so special.
With a history of 1900 years, Mitsumine Shrine is surrounded by rich nature. It feels like a truly sacred place. Instead of the usual komainu — a pair of guardian lion-dog statues placed at the entrance of most shrines to ward off evil — Mitsumine Shrine worships wolves as sacred messengers of the gods. This shrine has a unique history of faith that makes it stand out. Getting there isn’t too difficult. It takes about three hours from central Tokyo by train and bus. If you leave in the morning, you can make it a day trip.
At Mitsumine Shrine, the belief that wolves are messengers of the gods began in the Edo period. The belief comes from the idea that wolves, who barked at fire and strangers, could protect people from fire and thieves. Even today, wolves are lovingly called ‘oinusama’ at Mitsumine Shrine and cherished as messengers of the gods. One legend tells of the Great Fire of Meireki in 1657. It was a massive fire that broke out in Edo, present-day Tokyo. At that time, a rumor spread that houses with a protective talisman from Mitsumine Shrine didn’t burn in the fire. And this made the faith even stronger.
Since I love dogs, I feel a special affection for the pair of ‘oinusama’ enshrined at Mitsumine Shrine. The idea that wolves are the messengers of the gods makes me happy. Perhaps that is why I feel even more drawn to this shrine. As I walk toward the shrine, shimmering rays of sunlight filter through the trees. The sunlight falls softly around me. With each breath, I feel myself being purified. In front of me stands a “goshinboku”— a sacred tree believed to hold divine spirits at a shrine, rising straight up into the sky. When I touched the “goshinboku”, I felt a quiet renewal. At the shrine, everything seemed to fall into peace. I even find myself smiling without realizing it. At that moment, I feel a quiet sense of gratitude just for being there. I’m reminded of my parents who gave me life. I found myself putting my hands together in prayer.
What do you think? Mitsumine Shrine remains a truly mystical place, where the unique faith in ‘oinusama’ lingers in your heart. How about visiting Mitsumine Shrine to meet the ‘oinusama’? In the stillness of this shrine, you sense an otherworldly power. Simply being here leaves you feeling refreshed. Your senses are gently sharpened, as if you are held by the quiet presence of the shrine. I’m sure it will be an experience like no other. I hope you will come and feel it for yourself.
Naomi Kashiwamura
