Hirizo Beach: crystal-clear snorkelling one easy ride beyond Shimoda
A friend tells you, “Head to Izu—the sea is stunning. If you can, stretch as far as Hirizo Beach.” Good advice. Hirizo (ヒリゾ浜) sits on the southern tip of the Izu Peninsula, Shizuoka Prefecture, and its emerald shallows can rival Okinawa even though it is reached entirely by public transport from Tokyo in half a day.
Why this little inlet is worth the detour
- Roadless access keeps the water clean. The beach is tucked inside a narrow inlet framed by dark volcanic cliffs. Because you can get there only by boat, no sand is kicked up by vehicles or crowds.
- Colourful marine life in snorkel depth. Neon damselfish, butterflyfish and sometimes a sea turtle glide above coral-covered rocks just a few fin-kicks from shore.
- Gentle entry for mixed-ability swimmers. The bottom shelves gradually, so school-age children with life jackets can float beside confident adults.
- Ultra-short boat hop. Shuttle boats leave Nakagi Port every few minutes and the crossing takes less than five minutes; during my own visit it felt closer to one minute. (nakagi.jp, beachside-log.com)
A firsthand surprise
I finally made the trip last weekend. After a smooth connection—express train, coastal bus, and a quick stroll—I was standing at Nakagi Port by 9 a.m. Staff fitted me with a life jacket, the skipper gunned the engine, and about a minute later we rounded a craggy headland into water so transparent I could count sea urchins on the bottom. I had not expected such clear snorkelling only one change beyond Shimoda, and returning before sunset left me happily exhausted but not travel-weary.
How to reach Hirizo without a car
- Tokyo → Izukyu-Shimoda
• Take the limited-express Odoriko (or the panoramic Saphir Odoriko) from Tokyo Station. Journey time is about 2 h 30 min, all seats reserved. - Izukyu-Shimoda Station → Nakagi
• Outside the station, board a Tokai Bus bound for Nakagi (中木) or Ihama. Services run roughly hourly in summer and take 40–50 min along a scenic coastal road (about ¥900, IC cards accepted). (japan-experience.com, tokaibus.jp) - Nakagi Port → Hirizo Beach
• Buy a round-trip ticket at the quay (¥2 000 adults, ¥1 000 children). Boats operate from about 8 : 30 to 16 : 00, every few minutes at peak times; the ride is well under five minutes. Life jackets are included, and rental stalls offer masks, fins and beach tents. (nakagi.jp)
Practical pointers
- Arrive at Nakagi before 9 a.m. to avoid queues and secure shade on the rocky shore.
- There are no shops on the beach—pack lunch, plenty of water and reef-safe sunscreen.
- Wear sturdy water shoes (the beach is pebbly and sea-urchins hide between rocks).
- Check the town website on the morning of travel; boats are cancelled in rough seas.
Base yourself in Shimoda
Accommodation around Nakagi is limited, so stay in Shimoda, a compact port where Commodore Perry’s Black Ships anchored in 1854. Guesthouses and small hotels cluster near the station, Perry Road glows under gas lamps at night, and summer firework displays add extra charm after a day in the water.
Three flavours to try while you are in town
- Kinmedai no nitsuke – splendid alfonsino simmered in soy, sake and ginger; Shimoda lands Japan’s largest catch of this ruby-eyed fish. (japanrailandtravel.com, princehotels.com)
- Ise-ebi – Japanese spiny lobster served raw or lightly grilled, a winter specialty across the peninsula and a highlight of many ryokan dinners. (explore-izu.com)
- Wasabi soft-serve – vanilla ice cream blended with freshly grated Amagi wasabi, available at Roadside Station Amagigoe and cafés around Perry Road. (islands.com)
A two-day car-free outline
Day 1 Morning Odoriko to Shimoda → drop bags → stroll Perry Road and local museums → kinmedai dinner.
Day 2 07 : 45 bus to Nakagi → full day snorkelling and tide-pooling at Hirizo → return to Shimoda for hot-spring bath, Ise-ebi supper and wasabi ice-cream dessert.
Farewell thought
Hirizo Beach blends the thrill of a hidden inlet with the ease of public transport. Whether you are travelling with children or simply want a low-effort, high-reward seaside escape, pack a mask, catch an early train, and let the clear water south of Shimoda become a standout memory of your next Japan trip. Safe travels and happy snorkelling!
